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Aiko Ohno dives into the cool waters off Japan's Ise-Shima National Park, scanning the rocky seabed for turban and turban shells. Three meters deep, she swims easily without an oxygen tank, using only her goggles, fins, weight belt and sugar, mesh net that is attached to a floating ring.
“I love the sea and being in the water,” she says after resurfacing.
Ohno is a seasoned diver, or “sea woman” as they are called in Japan. For centuries, these traditional fishermen have lived off the rich waters around the Ise-Shima area, gathering seafood to sell at the market.
“We will be with nature – not capturing too much, and being aware of its protection. It's a tradition handed down thousands of years ago,” says Ohno, who moved here nine years ago from Tokyo to become a time diver.
Today, the Pacific Ocean is a little calm – the remnants of a typhoon at the end of the season – so Ohno and his team of rescuers do not stay in the water for long. But they don't have to – within 10 minutes their webs start filling up.
Age is no barrier here. At 46, Ohno is one of the youngest in her group – the oldest diver today is 74.
Once a thriving industry, there are now only about 2,000 ama divers left in Japan, according to estimates. Most of them are found in this beautiful area.
“The older divers still come here every day with smiles on their faces. I've learned that maybe that's what gives them what we say Ikigai, or a reason to live,” says Ohno.
“Today, very few girls aim to dive themselves, so I might be the only one in my generation to take over. But it's something I enjoy.”
Here in Ise-Shima, you can meet some of these living legends. Across the region, a handful of geese, or divers' huts, remote dot beaches, with some giving visitors the opportunity to learn about the culture of the time and taste their latest catch.
Found on the eastern tip of Mie prefecture, Ise-Shima is an area where ancient traditions, spirituality and the outdoors collide. Where fertile mountains give way to sprawling coastlines, sheltered inlets and remote islands. And where life moves at a slower pace – just the way the locals like it.
Far from the main centers like Tokyo and Osaka, which have the highest number of visitors, Ise-Shima is largely untouched.
Although this place has been a popular pilgrimage destination for locals for centuries, when it comes to international tourism it remains one of Japan's best kept secrets. .
Journey to the 'soul of Japan'
Ise Jingu consists of 125 Shinto shrines. – CNN
Since the Edo period (between 1603 and 1868), pilgrims have come to this region to visit the most sacred Shinto shrines in Japan.
Ise Jingu is the epicenter of Shinto spirituality. Consisting of 125 shrines, this sprawling complex is home to the Naiku and Geko shrines – known as the soul of Japan.
Every year, millions of visitors come to pray to the sun deity, Amaterasu Omikami, and to soak up the natural beauty of the area. Here, centuries-old Japanese cedar and cypress trees tower over the structures.
A visit to this quiet place of worship, located in Ise City, is considered a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many in Japan.
Ise Jingu is also the gateway to the vast Ise-Shima National Park.
Stretching 55,500 hectares in size from the mountains to the sea – or about the size of France – this area's access to nature makes it the perfect place for an outdoor escape.
Ancient waterfall mediation ritual
About a 30-minute ride from Ise Jingu, nestled in the fertile Toba Mountains, are the sacred Shirataki Falls.
Here, visitors can experience the so-called centuries-old Buddhist ritual takigyo, or waterfall meditation, which involves sitting under the rushing streams to cleanse the body and spirit.
“This area has been a place of nature worship for 1,300 years, where people cleanse themselves with the water,” said Shigeki Matsumoto, chairman of the Shirataki Daimyojin Shrine Association, as he walked with us through the forest.
“The practice is said to wash away distractions and help you find a positive path in life. “
But the ritual is not for the weak or cold hearted. The Shirataki Daimyojin Shrine Association guides travelers to experience the full power of the frigid waters that flow off the mountain year-round, even in the depths of winter.
The exciting practice requires self-control and awareness, testing your body and mind, as a senior CNN correspondent Will Ripley found out.
Travelers can warm up afterward in one of the many forest saunas downstream from the falls.
Those interested should try to book in advance with the Shirataki Daimyojin Shrine Association.
Get the heart pumping
A range of outdoor activities can be enjoyed in the Ise-Shima area, from hiking and biking to ziplining and even skydiving.
One of the best ways to explore the area is on four wheels.
In the southern part of the national park, near the town of Minamiise, there is a labyrinth of off-road trails just waiting to be explored by ATV.
Kosuke Nakanishi is a local Ise guide who has spent years taking guests off the beaten track on these insects.
It takes us whistling through the forest, over muddy tracks and up to a coastal vista to capture the full beauty of the peninsula.
“I like being surrounded by nature and being active, so this is the perfect job for me,” says the guide, who works with the supervisor. Taso Shirahama Hotel.
“I like the mountains and the sea, so I can clear my mind and relax when I'm here.”
Taste of Ise-Shima
Ran's restaurant serves local dishes inspired by the flavors of the season. – CNN
Surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, Ise-Shima is famous for its abundance of seafood.
In the old days the area got status miketsukunimeaning that seafood from around the peninsula, such as spicy lobster and abalone, was sourced for Japan's imperial family.
Today, Ise-Shima seafood can be found in high-end restaurants throughout Japan. But where better to sample it than straight from the store?
Whether it's from a humble restaurant serving daily catch to haute dining establishments offering a little taste of luxury, there is no shortage of places to enjoy fresh seafood.
Perched on the edge of Ise-Shima National Park, Ran is a restaurant in the Oyado The Earth Hotel serving guests a taste of the area as well as panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean.
Head chef Mototsugu Yamakawa specializes in Kaiseki, a precise style of cuisine that reflects the seasons of Japan.
For nearly two decades it has prided itself on serving the freshest seafood from the peninsula, sourcing produce from seasoned divers whenever possible.
The restaurant's menu changes seasonally, with Chef Yamakawa and his team creating edible art. Their current star dish? Black abalone fried with kohlrabi.
“Japanese food is a visual feast to be enjoyed with the eyes and a sense of the season. That's the best part of our food,” said the chef.
“We want to offer delicious food to our customers from here. The freshness is different when you cook with seafood straight from the sea, so it gives it a completely different taste. As long as I'm here, I want to continue to protect the heritage and nature of the time.”
Getting there: To visit Ise-Shima it is necessary to depart from the popular tourist routes. It is a three-hour drive or train ride from Osaka's Kansai International Airport.
But that is what makes this place so special. Travelers are rewarded with a different side of Japan – one of adventure, ancient traditions and endless beauty.
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